If you follow me on MakeupAlley, you know I’m extremely fond of winged liner. Thick, thin, double, single, black, colourful, I love it all. Unfortunately, winged liner can be a bit of a hassle when you have hooded eyes.
Hooded eyes are basically when the brow bone protrudes slightly over the lid, almost like a deep-set eye, except the entire socket is not sunken in; just the top, or so the illusion shows. This makes it almost impossible to do crazy makeup looks, as your lid below the crease will be almost or totally covered by your browbone, which also comes down over the corner of the eye sometimes, which will make winged liner look a little off.
Thankfully, my obsession combined with ridiculous stubborness has come up with an easy way to overcome the hooded eye.
First, here’s a photo of my bare eye. You can see the shadows where the browbone hangs over my lid (sorry about my scraggly brows, I need to pluck those stray hairs soon…).
So! First, you’ll want to cover your lid from lash to brow with a neutral base. I used Wet N’ Wild’s “Brulee” for this.
Next, pick a slightly darker colour for your crease. The trick with the crease is to focus on the outer half of your eye to create the illusion that the shadows cast by your browbone are really part of the eyeshadow. For this, I used Estee Lauder’s “Chestnut.”
Next, pick an even darker colour to compliment your crease. Use this one ONLY on the outer part of your eye, right in the crease. It makes a gradient “shadow” to make your illusion more believable. For this, I used the dark brown in Wet N’ Wild’s “I <3 Matte” pallet.
You can add a highlight if you want. Generally I prefer matte on the browbone and shimmers in the inner corner. I didn’t use one on the inner corner, but I did use “Brulee” again to blend my shadows on my browbone. You don’t want to accentuate your browbone too much; after all, you’re trying to balance it!
Now it’s time for the liner! Here’s the main trick for this. Most of the time, thick wings will follow the natural curve of the eye instead of a straight line up top. However, you’ll need a straight line to create a sharp wing; a curve won’t work on a hooded eye because it will naturally slope down and drag your eyes down.
Remember to follow your natural lower lashline when creating the wing.
Tada! Add some undereye concealer and mascara, and do your brows…
Do your foundation and add a pretty lipcolour (a common one for wings is red or coral)…
and enjoy your wings!!
Foundation: Maybelline Mineral Power “Fair”
Blush: Milani “Luminous”
Concealer: Milani Secret Cover Cream Concealer “Natural Beige”
Eyeliner: E.L.F. Liquid Liner
Mascara: Maybelline The Falsies
Brow Powder: nameless cool brown eyeshadow
Lips: Clinique Superbalm “Black Honey”